Introduction

When a washing machine drum stops spinning, most users immediately think, “The motor is dead!” or “This will be an expensive repair.” But the truth is, 80% of cases can be solved without calling a technician — if you know where to look and what to check.

This is not a manual-style guide. This is a practical, field-tested method that technicians use to identify and fix drum problems quickly — and now you’ll know it too.

1st Key Point 90% Solve Your Problem (Check the Capacitor)

If the motor hums but doesn’t start, the capacitor may be weak or dead.
Check for:

  • Swollen body
  • Leaking oil or a bulging top

Fix: Replace with the same µF (microfarad) rating. It’s inexpensive and takes 5 minutes.

 Important Tools You’ll Need:

  • Phillips & Flat Screwdriver
  • Basic Multimeter
  • Flashlight or Headlamp
  • Electrical Tape
  • 13mm Spanner (for belt/motor access)

Troubleshooting Compulsory Step-by-Step

Step 1: Safety Measures:

  • Unplug the machine completely.
  • If the drum has water inside, drain it first.
  • Make sure your hands are dry. Use insulated slippers if possible.

Step 2: Spin the Drum by Hand:

  • Open the top or front door and manually rotate the drum.
  • Suppose the drum spins smoothly by hand without any resistance or noise. In that case, that usually means the mechanical side is okay — the problem is likely electrical, either with the motor not receiving power or the belt not transferring it.
  • If it’s jammed or makes grinding noises, the problem could be the bearings or a drum lock mechanism.

Step 3: Open the Back Panel and Check the Belt:

  • Unscrew and remove the rear panel (usually 4–6 screws).
  • You’ll see the drive belt between the motor and the drum.
  • Inspect for:
  • Broken or snapped belt
  • Slipped belt
  • Misaligned pulley
  • Fix: If the belt feels slack or isn’t sitting tightly on the pulley, it either needs to be re-aligned or replaced. Most belts can be changed in just a few minutes using a basic spanner — no need for full disassembly.

Step 4: Test the Motor (Multimeter or Direct Power):

Option A: Multimeter Test:

  • Set your multimeter to resistance (ohms) mode.
  • Place the probes on both motor terminals.
  • When you touch the multimeter probes to the motor terminals and it doesn’t show any resistance — just ‘1’ or infinite — that’s a clear sign the winding has burnt out or disconnected inside.
  • A reading between 2 and 10 ohms means the motor coil is fine.

Option B: Direct Power Test (Advanced – Only If You’re Comfortable):

  • Apply 220V directly to the motor leads (after disconnecting it from the PCB).
  • If the motor spins, the issue lies in the belt or control system.
  • If it just hums or doesn’t move, check the capacitor.
    ⚠️ Only perform direct motor testing if you understand electrical safety. Otherwise, skip this step.

Step 6: Check Drum Bearings (If Drum is Stuck or Noisy):

  • Try rotating the drum with force.
  • If you hear grinding or scratching noises, the drum bearings may be worn out.
  • Look near the center of the drum shaft for signs of:
  • Rust
  • Oil/grease leakage
  • Water marks
  • Fix: “Fixing the bearings means opening the main tub, removing the old metal rings (bearings), and installing new ones along with a fresh water seal. It’s a heavy repair — you’ll need time, tools, and patience — but it can save you the cost of a new machine.

🔚 Conclusion:

A non-spinning drum doesn’t always mean disaster. In most cases, it’s something simple like a slipped belt, capacitor failure, or minor alignment issue.
By following this step-by-step, technician-grade guide, you can confidently troubleshoot and repair the issue without paying for unnecessary service calls.

The methods shared above are what professionals use — they just don’t want you to know it.

Source: ChrisFix / Youtube

The video embedded above belongs to its original creator on YouTube. We’ve added it here only to support the steps explained in this blog. All written content in this post is 100% original.

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